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Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Teramachi Arcade Kyoto

Teramachi Arcade Kyoto寺町商店街京都

Teramachi Dori - literally "temple town" - is an eclectic mix of old book shops, clothing stores aimed at the very young, galleries, and touristy knicknack places.

The best stretch is north of this block, across Oike Dori beyond City Hall on the way to the Imperial Palace.

It is not enclosed, and much quieter. Antique shops and cafes and trees line the street from Nijo up to Marutamachi.

The section pictured here is looking south towards Sanjo south of Oike. From here all the way to Shijo, the street is an arcade - and cycling is verboten except between midnight and 10 am.

At that time, cyclists are free to terrorize the pigeons and drunks that are out and about.

However, north of Sanjo, if you ride very slowly and carefully - basically at walking speed - the cops don't seem to mind. (South of that and the street is too crowded to ride.)

Along this stretch are a great frame shop, high end stationery store, a few galleries, a used book shop, and other interesting places.

And, in keeping with its name, there are indeed temples. If you flew over or were to look at a map, the amount of real estate in downtown Kyoto given over to temples is impressive.

At the corner of Oike - Teramachi is the most historically significant of them: Honnoji Temple. Honnoji Temple is where Oda Nobunaga died.

In 1582, the shogun was attacked at the temple, and then forced to commit ritual suicide.

Something to keep in mind as you walk your cross bike slowly by the entrance.

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Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Cycling near Nijo Castle

Cycling high school students near Nijo Castle Kyoto二条城の近く自転車で乗る

School was letting out near Nijo Castle.

The brief summer holiday - all of one month - had just ended and it was back to the books.

Temperatures were in the mid-thirties (high nineties in Fahrenheit) and students were probably not thrilled about being back in their trig classes, their world history classes, their stare out the window as the world goes by classes as sensei drones on at the front of the room.

This young pair were elated to have been released from a day at school, and were zigzagging south of Nijo Castle. They were the very embodiment of youthful joy and elan.

They both were riding practical "mama chari" bikes, perfect for getting around town and beating up on without worrying about the damage.

After they realized they were being photographed, the young man flashed a brief brilliant smile - and then resumed pedaling on to who knows where or what.

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Monday, August 29, 2011

High School Girls Near Nijo Station Kyoto

Cycling high school girls near Nijo Station Kyoto自転車乗っている女子高生

On a blistering late summer day, we were riding back from downtown Kyoto en route to home near Ninnaji Temple.

West of Nijo Castle and hoping to avoid traffic and for perhaps a bit of shade we were going to follow the road that parallels the Saiin Line train tracks to Enmachi.

At a light, the telltale squeal of high school girls down the block awakened us from a heat-induced coma.

Something or someone at school or on tv or God only knows was so hysterically hand-clappingly, back-slappingly funny that, unconsciously, they started to edge into the street while the light was still red.

No one paid them any mind but us. Ears ringing, we stared.

Pedestrians kept walking, a deliveryman made his delivery, cars slowly went around and narrowly avoided hitting them.

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Sunday, August 28, 2011

Crazy Kyoto Bicycle

Ichijoji Kyoto Bikeすげえ京都自転車

This bike, leaning on the outside of a shop building around the corner from the Keibunsha book shop in Ichijoji, gets our vote for most photogenic bike of the week.

We want to meet the owner.

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Saturday, August 27, 2011

Summer in Lewes Delaware on a Bike

Bikes in Lewes自転車で米国のルウィスを楽しむ

As the end of August looms, a hurricane approaches, school starts, and Labor Day is just around the corner, it is now the time to look back at a summer just ended.

As we do every summer, we spent a week in Lewes, Delaware.

Lewes is a slow-moving mid-Atlantic down with a Philadelphia accent but a Southern vibe.

The town was the site of the earliest settlement of Europeans in Delaware. It was "discovered" and founded by the Dutch on June 3, 1631, and first named Zwaanendael (Swan Valley).

This colony did not last long as, in the following year, the native people - the Lenni Lenape - killed all of the 32 settlers.

Almost two centuries later, on April 5 and 6, 1813, Lewes was bombed by the British navy during the War of 1812. A cannonball from the attack remains lodged in the base of Cannonball House, which now a maritime museum.

Today it is a lovely small town at the south end of the Delaware Bay, and has ferry service to Cape May, New Jersey.

Much of the downtown area has been restored and feels and looks like Georgetown or Philadelphia's Society Hill.

The town is flat and great for cycling.

The bay beach is ten-minutes away. For those who want waves, it will take 25 minutes to get to Cape Henlopen State Park which fronts the Atlantic Ocean.

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Friday, August 26, 2011

Cycling Society Hill Philadelphia

Cycling on 3rd Street Philadelphia フィラデルフィアのソサエティーヒルを自転車で乗る

A slum as recently as the 1950s, Philadelphia's Society Hill is now one of the most expensive and beautiful areas of the city.

Thanks in part to Edmund Bacon (father of actor Kevin), who was the head city planner of at the Philadelphia City Planning Commission for many years, the area was revitalized.

To draw wealthy residents to the area two apartment towers, designed by IM Pei, were built.

Today, many many blocks of brick colonial homes frame Independence Mall. The neighborhood is redolent of history and beautifully preserved - and a vibrant place to work and live.

It is also a good place to cycle.

Just south is South Street, a short hop north takes you to Northern Liberties, and the main business area of Center City is no more than 10 minutes away on a bike.

And there is no way that SEPTA can beat that.


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Thursday, August 25, 2011

Keibunsha Book Store Kyoto

Keibunsha Book Store Kyoto恵分社一乗寺本屋

In the Ichijoji section of Kyoto are lots of ramen shops - when we say lots, we mean a ton - a great used furniture store, and a fabulous book store.

The original reason for riding over was to buy a small table at Budo Kagu (Grape Furniture), a used furniture store with great old pieces.

Mission accomplished, we set out the few blocks on the bike to a favorite book store:

Keibunsha

It is a mid-size book store that sells many other, generally arty, things.

Though it is technically a "chain," it has a funky, low-key vibe and lots of funky, low-key customers.

The store is a short walk south from the Ichijoji train station.

Following an hour or of browsing and checking out an art exhibit in the back room, we tucked into an excellent bowl of chashumen noodles at Takayasu.

Keibunsha

075 711 5919
10:00 ~ 22:00

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