Kyoto Arashiyama Illumination 2013

嵐山は元気です　「花灯路」始まる印刷用画面を開く

The annual illumination in Arashiyama, Kyoto, is now underway.

Every evening from about 5 pm until 8:30, the area's famed bridge - Togetsukyo - is lit up.

Some 2500 tiny lights have been set up on the bridge supports.

The illumination takes place every night until December 23rd.

Cyclists should try to park a few blocks from the bridge and then walk.


Photo © Kyoto Shinbun

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Two Bikes in Arashiyama

京都嵐山にある自転車二台

On a chilly fall Sunday, we rode via Nishi Kyogoku - home to Kyoto Sanga, the city's soccer team - along the bike path to Arashiyama.

It was blustery and overcast but many were out.

The local farmers were busy in their fields; nearby college students were barbequing.

Not far from Matsuo Taisha, a little league baseball game was taking place. Parents huddled in small groups and cheered on the boys.

When we got closer to Arashiyama, much of the debris from the September storm could be seen. Branches, dirt, and trash were piled up in mounds along the banks of the river.

Once in the touristed areas of Arashiyama though, foot traffic was so thick that we turned back without crossing the Togetsukyo Bridge and heading into the main drag of the neighborhood that runs in front of Tenryuji Temple and a bit further up the famous bamboo grove.

This coming weekend will be even more congested as the leaves should be out in all their glory.


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Cycling Arashiyama to Daikakuji Temple

自転車で嵐山から大覚寺へ

Today is as close to perfect for cycling as you will get.

Low humidity, temperatures in the mid-20s (75F).

Where to go?

For those in the Arashiyama area feeling overwhelmed by the crowds, fear not.

A short ride away is Daikakuji Temple.

Daikakuji Temple is a spacious temple complex with an adjoining pond. It is a popular spot for September moon-viewing.

Daikakuji is part of the Esoteric school of Buddhism. It was a first a detached palace that served the Emperor Saga. In 876 C.E., it was rebuilt as Daikakuji Temple.

It is perfect for a picnic.


View Kyoto City Hall to Daikakuji Temple in a larger map


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Mifune Festival in Arashiyama

三船祭嵐山

May 19 will witness the annual Mifune Festival in Arashiyama.

At 2 pm, 30 boats bearing participants dressed in imperial garb will sail up the Oi River. Prior to that, at noon, the procession will start from nearby Kuramazaki Shrine.

The festival is affiliated with Kurumazaki Shrine and dates back some 1,100 years.

For cyclists, Arashiyama is always tricky. There is so much to see, yet the hordes can be off-putting.

On May 19, you can expect 100,000 to watch the "action" from the bridge and river banks.

Go early, park perhaps a distance from the river, then walk.

Kurumazaki Shrine is a patron saint of the performing arts.


Photo@JNTO

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River Work in Arashiyama Kyoto

嵐山桂川改修に３案　国交省　景観へ影響必至

Work is set to begin on the bridge and paths along the Katsura River in Arashiyama.

As a result of damage from a typhoon in 2004, work on weirs will take place, embankments will be raised, and the river bed lowered by 1.3 - 2.4 meters.

In addition, the bridge itself will be extended.　

As with any work in a culturally rich - and sensitive - area, one worries about the look of the work.

Can the Ministry of Construction and local officials and companies come up with a plan that is environmentally friendly, not terribly corrupt in terms of awarding contracts, fiscally responsible, and attractive?

Also, from a cyclist's perspective, one of Japan's best and longest cycling paths - from Arashiyama to Kizu, not far from Nara - begins almost at the foot of the above bridge. What disruption, change, improvement is likely to occur?


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Kyoto Arashiyama Illumination

冬の嵐山に柔らかな明かり　花灯路始まる

In Arashiyama, in the far west of Kyoto, the Togetsukyo Bridge is being illuminated as part of a winter tourism campaign.

Every evening the bridge is lit up from 5 pm until 8:30 pm.

Illumination is also taking place at Tenryuji Temple and the area's well-known bamboo forest.

A total of 2500 lights have been set up, and this year for the first time Kameyama Park will be lit up.

The events continue until December 17.

Winter cycling goods.

Save £10 when you spend £100 on cycle clothing, run, and nutrition
Code: 10OFF
Offer ends: 13/11/2012 (2pm GMT)

Save £20 when you spend £200 on cycle clothing, run, and nutrition
Code: 20OFF
Offer ends: 13/11/2012 (2pm GMT)

Winter cycling goods.

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Kyoto News Ukai Cormorant Fishing in Arashiyama

嵐山で鵜飼

Until September 17, the Arashiyama area of Kyoto will host a traditional type of fishing known as ukai.

Ukai is an Asian fishing method in which cormorants - large birds famed for diving to catch fish - are used to catch sweet river fish.

The fishing takes place on the Oi River from 7 pm to 9 pm.

Men (and a few women now) dressed in traditional fishing robes go out on boats into the river with the birds, whose necks are constrained by metal necklaces.

The birds thus catch the fish but cannot swallow them.

They are moreover tied by a rope to the fisherman, who reels the bird in once it has a fish.

To ride on a boat and see the action up close, it costs 1,700 for adults and 850 yen for children.

The boats depart 19:00 & 20:00 (after Sept. 1: 18:30 & 19:30).

Information

Arashiyama Tsusen: Tel: 075 861 0302.

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Cycling Kyoto Tenryuji Temple

自転車で嵐山の天龍寺へ

This week's Arashiyama route is a really short ride from the main drag of Arashiyama to Tenryuji Temple.

Tenryuji Temple is a World Heritage site close to the Arashiyama Station on the Keifuku Line. It is one of the Five Great Zen temples of Kyoto.

The temple was established in 1339 C.E. by Shogun Ashikaga Takauji and is known for its gardens and views of the surrounding mountains.

It was the residence of Emperor Go-Saga in 1270.

When Go-Daigo, yet another resident Emperor, died in 1338, Muko Takauji, a zen priest, had a dream in which Go-Daigo rose from the Oi River in Arashiyama. The late emperor rose in the form of a gold dragon.

To appease the spirt of the deceased emperor, Takauji ordered the building of Tenyuji Temple.

Tenryuji expanded over time, numbering 150 sub-temples and spreading almost to Koryuji Temple in Uzumasa.

It is most crowded in the autumn when the fall colors are at their peak.

Directions

From the street in front of the Arashiyama Station on the Keifuku Line, turn right and head north. Tenryuji is on the left a short distance.


Information

The most direct way to get from central Kyoto to Arashiyama is to head west on Marutamachi Dori - for about 30 minutes.

For those with a bike bag, the most pain free way is to take the train to JR Saga Arashiyama is a 15+ minute from Kyoto Station.



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Cycling Kyoto Arashiyama to Matsuo Taisha Shrine

自転車で嵐山の松雄大社へ

This week's Arashiyama route will be a short ride over to Matsuo Taisha Shrine and then down to the Moss Temple (Kokedera, in Japanese).

Crossing the Toketsugyo Bridge, we head down the bike path that goes almost all the way to Nara. It follows the Katsura River.

Matsuo Taisha Shrine is about 10 - 15 minutes at most of flat riding from Arashiyama. It was founded in 701 C.E. by hge head of the Hata clan, which founded Fushimi Inari Shrine.

The Hatas, originally from Korea, brought with them advanced technology to the then less advanced Japanese.

The shrine is a patron saint for rice cultivation, miso and soy production, building, weaving, birth, and traffic safety (!).

In April and May, many roses come into bloom.

The next stop is Saihoji Temple, also known as the Moss Temple (Kokedera).

This is the most expensive temple to visit in Kyoto. Reservations are necessary and, it costs 3,000 yen to enter. Visitors then spend about twenty minutes copying the sutra - writing (tracing) Chinese characters - before being released to wander the grounds.

Kokedera is believed to have been established by the monk Gyoki before the founding of Kyoto. In 1339 C.E., it was then converted into a Zen temple by Muso Soseki.

Today there are more than 120 types of moss within the grounds, and a pond that is shaped like the Chinese character kokoro (heart or soul) - 心 - and a fabulous rock garden.

For more culture, it is not far to ride on to Katsura Imperial Villa. From the Moss Temple, go back to Matsuo Taisho and back down on the bike lane that parallels the Katsura River. Ride about 10 minutes to the next bridge and go up to street level. There are signs that will take you the five to seven minutes south and then east to the Villa. Katsura also requires a reservationl

Information

The most direct way to get from central Kyoto to Arashiyama is to head west on Marutamachi Dori - for about 30 minutes.

For those with a bike bag, the most pain free way is to take the train to JR Saga Arashiyama is a 15+ minute from Kyoto Station.



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Cycling from Arashiyama to Daikakuji Temple

自転車で嵐山の大覚寺へ

This week's Arashiyama route will be over to Daikakuji Temple.

Daikakuji was originally a detached palace for the Emperor Saga. In 876 C.E., however, his daughter Empress Seishi rebuilt the palace as Daikakuji Temple and named her son, Imperial Prince Gojaku, as its first chief priest.

A large palace was then built on a one hundred acre piece of land that sits next to Osawa pond. The pond is manmade, and is modeled upon Lake Tungting in China.

Daikakuji looks and feels quite similar to Ninnaji Temple, which is a fifteen-minute ride back towards the center of town.

The Utano Youth Hostel is a short ride on the ride to Ninnaji and Ryoanji Temples - and farther on, the Golden Pavilion - on the left. It is fabulously beautiful, if a bit inconvenient.

Information

The easiest way to get from central Kyoto to Arashiyama is to head west on Marutamachi Dori - for about 30 minutes.

For those with a bike bag, JR Saga Arashiyama is a 15+ minute from Kyoto Station.



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Cycling Kyoto Arashiyama Adashino Temple

自転車で嵐山から化野念仏寺へ

Arashiyama, in western Kyoto, is one of Kyoto's most beautiful areas.

Its river, the Togetsukyo Bridge, a vast bamboo forest, Tenryuji Temple, and much more make it a must-see place.

The Arashiyama to Adashino Nenbutsu cycling route passes through through the bamboo forest, is not far from the Okochi Sanso Villa, crosses the JR Saiin Line tracks.

At this point, the route will enter an area filled with many small temples. On the right is the Sagano Doll House (Kyoto Japanese Folk Dolls Museum). From here, up a hill and on the left is Adashino Nenbutsu Temple.

Adashino Nenbutsu Temple was founded by Kobo Daishi to honor the souls of the dead, the anonymous dead as the area was used as a dumping ground for corpses in ancient times. In August, "sento kuyo," a ceremony dedicated to the spirits of the dead, takes place and about ten thousand stone statues are lit up with candles.

The temple dates to the ninth century.

Information

The easiest way to ride from central Kyoto to Arashiyama is to head west on Marutamachi Dori - and ride for about 30 minutes.

For those with a bike bag, JR Saga Arashiyama is a 15+ minute from Kyoto Station.


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自転車で嵐山から大覚寺へ

自転車で大覚寺へ

Arashiyama is a great part of Kyoto, and a great place to cycle - if planned well.

It is flat and well-paved, and if one avoids the crowds during peak season it is a sweet ride.

For more information, in Japanese (with a link to an English page), here is a page on cycling from the center of Arashiyama to Daikakuji Temple:

Ride Arashiyama, ride.


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自転車で嵐山から化野念仏寺へ

嵐山から化野念仏寺へ

One of the great areas for cycling in Kyoto is Arashiyama.

For more information, in Japanese (with a link to an English page), here is a page on riding from to Adashino nenbutsu Temple:

Arashiyama to Adashino Nenbutsu


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Hiking Hozukyo Arashiyama Kyoto

京都嵐山保津川ハイキング

West of the Arashiyama area in Kyoto is the Hozukyo Gorge and River.

Along one side of the river runs the Torokko tourist train (also known as the "Sagano Romantic Train").

The train runs between JR Saga Arashiyama Station and Kameoka Station. From Umahori, it is possible to take the Hozu River Boat Tour on the return journey.

The boat takes about two hours and lets you off near the Togetsukyo Bridge in downtown Arashiyama.

For those who would rather hike, a good option is to take the JR Saiin Line one stop from Saga Arashiyama to Hozuyo Station. The station lies in the gorge and there are no inhabitants.

The purpose of the station is to let hikers and others get into the gorge easily.

From here, it is about 5-6 kilometers back into Arashiyama.

After alighting at Hozukyo, cross the large red bridge - that spans the river below - to the road on the other side (there may be a few cars on the station side as well). Then turn right. Follow this road as it leads you to the trail and back into Arashiyama.

Highlights along the route are the Ochiai Bashi Bridge and the bamboo forest in Arashiyama. The route follows the river until a bit beyond the Ochiai Bashi Bridge.

Details

Boats depart hourly between 9:00 and 14:00 and then at 15:30.

However, between December 1 - March 9, the boats leave at 10:00 and 11:30 in the morning and 13:00 and 14:30 after lunch.


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Kyoto to Nara Bicycle Path Sign

八幡木津自転車道線

It doesn't take much imagination to hate Japan's Ministry of Construction.

In several post-War decades, the Ministry managed to concrete over and dam up the landscape and rivers of what was a beautiful country.

The solution to every problem seemed to be: throw a lot of money at it, let the major construction firms run wild in the countryside and earn enormous sums (of which the yazuka took a sweet cut), and buildbuildbuild. The result was a Soviet style landscape. Bleak. Hard. Ugly. Concrete.

However, as cyclists, we must also take our hats off to the Ministry. The Men of Concrete have built a series of wonderful bike paths around the country. One of the best runs from Arashiyama, in western Kyoto, to Kizu, which is just outside of Nara.

The path is three meters wide and is for use for cyclists and pedestrians. In other words, there are no cars, trucks, or motorcycles for the 45 km of the route.

The path follows the Katsura River out of Kyoto, and then joins the Kizu River.

We will be making the ride in late March and will blog it.

Information in Japanese.

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Cycling Tenryuji Temple Kyoto

自転車で天龍寺へ

Cycling in Arashiyama offers so many sites and places to see - and some serious obstacles - that choosing a route is key.

Above all, stay off the main drag as much as possible. The street that runs from roughly the JR tracks down to the Katsura River at Togetsukyo Bridge is packed, year round, with tourists and those catering to their whims.

Except when crossing the bridge, it is best to stay off.

Once away, though, the fun starts. Even Tenryuji Temple, a World Heritage site located on the main drag that is very popular, can be approached from side streets which are pedestrian and cyclist friendly.

If you are coming from the Hankyu Railways side, cross the Togetsukyo Bridge, turn left at the first street. After you pass Kitcho - a three-star Michelin restaurant - and a few other fabulous buildings head north into the neighborhood that borders the temple.

Get lost. Find the statuary in front of a temple wall. Keep pedaling. Go into an old antique shop. Find the temple.

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