Osaka Castle Moat

大阪城の近く

Osaka Castle is the great historical attraction in Japan's second city.

Aside from the geographical layout of the city - canals, port, hills, etc. - little remains of pre-War Osaka.

(A friend who was born and raised in Osaka, married a US Serviceman in the early 1950s, and spent 50 years in the US, upon returning in the late 1990s said the only familiar aspects of the city were the street names and dialect.)

The Castle, however, miraculously survived US Air Force raids of March 13th and 14th, 1945. (It also survived several later raids, in June and August, as well.)

The rest of the city was flattened when 274 B29 bombers dropped napalm - incendiary - bombs on a wooden and paper city.

Today Osaka Castle is beacon of sorts, ensconced in a large relaxed green park, surrounded by buildings, buildings, buildings.

The image of the castle is visible in the reflection of the building pictured above right.

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Cycling Osaka Castle Park

自転車で大阪城へ

Osaka Castle is one of Toyotomi Hideyoshi's great legacies.

Modeled after Azuchi Castle, rival Oda Nobunaga's headquarters, Toyotomi wanted to and achieved a castle that was similar to but greater that Nobunaga's.

The castle was completed in 1597, the year Hideyoshi died.

However, the castle was destroyed shortly thereafter, in 1615, by troops loyal to Tokugawa. It was first rebuilt in the 1620s.

Disaster struck once again in the 1660s: this time lightning struck and the castle burnt down.

The current castle was built in 1931, and it managed to survive US bombing during World War II.

The castle is surrounded by moats and is located in a large urban park.

There is nothing equivalent in Kyoto. Nijo Castle is fabulous - as castles go, better - but there is no park. The Imperial Palace is a more beautiful park, but it is not as casual as the park around Osaka Castle.

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Fukuchiyama Castle

福知山城

On a day trip from Kyoto, we took in the rural town of Fukuchiyama.

In terms of tourism, the small city is best known for its castle.

Fukuchiyama Castle was built in 1579 by the Yokoyama clan.

In 1580, however, Akechi Mitsuhide rebuilt the castle after the capture of the leader of the Yokoyamas.

Three centuries later, in 1872, it was destroyed during modernization efforts by the Meiji government.

More recently, in 1986, the keep was reconstructed and is now a local history museum.

Unlike more famous castles - Osaka, Himeji, Kumamoto - there were hardly any visitors.

This was true of the entire city, which was eerily deserted.

With no other major temples or sites, the city sees few visitors as most continue on to Kinosaki, Maizuru, or places along the coast such as Tango.

For cyclists - especially boys of a certain age - the long, straight, barren shopping arcades present a delectable course for racing.

Fukuchiyama is 90 minutes via express train from Kyoto or Osaka

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Bicycle Parked in Front of Walls of Kumamoto Castle

熊本城の前にある自転車

On a muggy day in Kyushu, we got off the air-conditioned tram and into the thick air.

A short walk took us to the outer walls of Kumamoto Castle.

En route, a few bikers pedaled by slowly. This cycle however had thrown in the towel.

And in the dog days of August, so did we.

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Kumamoto Castle

熊本城

Kumamoto Castle is a classic Japanese hilltop castle located smack in the middle of downtown Kumamoto.

Much of it was burned in a final attack in 1877. However, it is a beautiful and impressive structure.

The first fortifications were built in 1467, then expanded in 1496.

Kato Kiyamasa greatly added to the castle between 1601 to 1607.

It ultimately had 49 turrets, 18 turret gates, and 29 smaller gates.

In 1960, much of the castle was reconstructed. Then, between 1998 to 2008, the castle complex was further reconstructed.

Information

Hours: 8:30 to 18:00 (until 17:00 from November to March)
Admission ends 30 minutes before closing time
Closed: December 29th to 31st
Admission: 500 yen

Access

From Kumamoto Station, it is a 10-15 minute ride on a tram. Alight at Kumamotojo-mae tram stop.

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