Cycling Lake Biwa (again)

自転車で琵琶湖一周

In October we are doing the Lake Biwa circuit. This will be the second time, and this time we will ride clockwise around Japan's largest lake.

That means Otsu to Makino, where we hope to spend a night. From there, we head into Oku Biwa (Upper Biwa), then down into Nagahama and back around to Otsu.

Three friends will join me for the Lake Biwa circuit.

Two of us live in Kyoto, so will meet at Heian Shrine, say a quick prayer to the Cycling Gods - and then head up and over Sanjo into Otsu.

The other riders live in Tokyo and Shiga. They will join us in Otsu.

Already, in early September, the weather Gods are shining, and a nip is in the air.

Mother Biwa awaits.

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Free Cruise to Chikubu Island Lake Biwa

竹生島を散策しよう　長浜のＮＰＯがモニター募る

A speck of an island at the northern end of Lake Biwa, Chikubu is a short boat ride from Nagahama.

A local non-profit group called "Machi Tsukuri Biwa" is offering a free trip out to the island.

Trips are limited to groups of 2-5 people, one group per day, every day but Tuesday. The ship departs from the Minami Hamako Port in Nagahama at 10 am. Upon arrival the group will walk around the small island.  The group will return to the island's port by around noon.

In the afternoon, free electric bike are available for cycling the island.

The island is famous for its view of Lake Biwa and is designated as a goddess of music. On the tiny island are Hogonji Temple and Tsukubusuma Shrine.

The waters around Chikubu are among the deepest in Lake Biwa. On the west side, it is 104 meters to the lake bottom.

Information

The trips are scheduled to run until March 23. For information and reservations, call 0749 72 4349.

Photo © Wikipedia

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Ishiyama Temple Fall Illumination Festival

名月彩る源氏物語　石山寺秋月祭

To celebrate the harvest moon, Ishiyama Temple is hosting its annual fall festival.

From September 18th until the 21st, the grounds of the temple will be decorated with 2,000 Japanese lanterns.

The illumination captures the mood of early fall and is divine.

Ishiyama Temple is of course where Lady Murasaki Shikibu wrote Genji Monogatari, the world's first novel.

In addition to the lanterns, there will be readings of sections of Genji, dance, and musical performances.

Information

Access: 10-minute walk from Keihan Ishiyamadera Station, or bus from JR Biwako Line Ishiyama Stn. and soon after getting off at Ishiyamadera-Sanmonmae bus stop.

500 yen entrance fee

Ishiyama Temple
1-1-1 Ishiyama Dera, Otsu City, Shiga 520-0861 Telephone 077 537 0013


For cyclists, Ishiyama Temple is an hour or so from Kyoto along the Lake Biwa route. It is over a hill and would be very dark at night.

Photo © Kyoto Shinbun

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Cherry Blossom Illumination at Hikone Castle Shiga

花々妖艶　堀の水面彩る　彦根城夜桜

While the cherry blossoms are fading fast here in Kyoto, out in Hikone, Shiga, they are in full bloom.

Hikone is along Lake Biwa and one of the many interesting towns along the cycling route around the circumference of the lake.

The main attraction of Hikone is its castle.

On the grounds of the castle are some 1200 cherry trees.

Until April 20th the moat, grounds, and castle itself will be illuminated from 6 - 9 pm every night.

Photo © Kyoto Shinbun

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Cycling Lake Biwa Would Be Even Better...

自転車で琵琶湖一周をより快適にしよう

The circuit of Lake Biwa is one of Japan's great bicycle rides.

It features all types of landscapes:

heavy industry near Otsu
agriculture and dairy farming
historical sites and castles
beautiful villages
pristine nature, especially in the far north
and, of course, the lake views

Better still, roughly 80% of the ride is either on cycling lanes or rural sidewalks on which nary a pedestrian can be found.

Cars are an issue mainly on Route 8 in the north, and then on the stretch from Wani to Otsu (or, if you go the other way, Otsu to Wani) on Route 161. We rode counter-clockwise, so the final stretch into Otsu was grim.

It was a hard two days - one night in Nagahama - but satisfying in so many ways.

However, the ride could be improved in several ways.

The biggest problem is the route signs. There are signs specifically for the cycling route. However, they disappear for long stretches only to pop up in an odd - and easily missed - location. Even with several maps and the ability to read Japanese, we were befuddled on more than one occasion and had to ask for directions.

Second, the detour off of Route 161 - as depressing as that is - and under the Omi Ohashi Bridge is confusing.

Third, please someone somehow turn off the winds. In the Omihachiman area we were buffeted by in-your-face gusts. It was a rough two hours.

Still, the ride is a great, great experience. We hope to do it again - over three days - and see more of the sites.


Photo © Joe Banerjee


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On the Road Somewhere Along Lake Biwa...

自転車で琵琶湖一周のどこかで。。。

As you have your coffee and web surf, we are somewhere en route to Otsu, then up the east side of Lake Biwa.

One night in a business hotel, then we continue around the northern end of the lake and back to Kyoto - in the rain.

Sunday is not looking good, weather-wise.

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Cycling Lake Biwa

自転車で琵琶湖一周

We are finally taking the plunge, though not we hope literally.

A friend and I are cycling the Lake Biwa circuit.

We both live in Kyoto, so will meet at Heian Shrine, say a quick prayer to the Cycling Gods - and then head up and over Sanjo into Otsu.

The plan is to head counter-clockwise, so we will head south from Otsu down to the bottom of the lake. Then we will head north towards Seta, Hikone, and Nagahama.

We will crash in a business hotel for the night, then start early on Day Two.

Cycling Gods willing, we will make it back to Kyoto by Sunday dinner, having cycled the entire 200+ km circuit of Mother Biwa.

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Cycling Lake Biwa

自転車で琵琶湖一周

Winter is not far off, but this is perhaps the best time of year to ride the Lake Biwa circuit.

Biwako is Japan's largest fresh water lake.

The area around Otsu, just over the hill from Kyoto, is fairly industrial. However, the rest of the ride is beautiful.

For much of the 270 km ride bike lanes or little used rural roads hug the lake.

Except for the northern end of the lake - and the bump you have to get over from Kyoto - there are no hills.

Museums, wild life, hot springs, and many historical sites are along the route.

It can be done in two days and one night, or at a more leisurely pace in three days and two nights. (We even know a few young guys that did the whole thing in a single day).


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Cycling Kyoto to Otsu Shiga Lake Biwa

自転車で京都から大津市まで

For Kyotoites wanting to do the Lake Biwa circuit - or just ride over to Otsu for the day - the biggest impediment is the Meishin Expressway.

The massive pile of raised concrete slams through the narrow pass where the Old Tokaido highway (which ends at Sanjo Dori in central Kyoto) runs just east of Yamashina Station.

However, there is a car-free route that is except for one short steep stretch easy as can be.

Riding out of Kyoto on Sanjo Dori, a short gradual climb takes you into Yamashina, a nondescript suburb. After passing JR Yamashina Station - it will be on the left, down a street, and well marked - turn left off of Sanjo at Shinomimya Dori（四ノ宮）. There is a police box, or Koban, on the far right corner.

Ride down this narrow street, past the small train station, and under the JR tracks. Then follow the canal.

There will start to be signs for hikers; see below left. The route to follow to Otsu is the Kozekigoe （小関超え）. Once you pass under the Meishin Expressway, there will be a fork. (A public toilet is to the left.) We went on the right fork, following the sign and the advice of a kind hiker, but suspect it is possible to head left as well.

The road is steep, narrow, and beat up but only for a short while. Except for the very fit, it means ten minutes of pushing the bike up to the top. From there a 10-minute coast into Otsu awaits.

The main attraction of Otsu is of course Japan's largest lake: Lake Biwa (pictured above). It has incredible vistas, and in many places there is a bike path along the edge of the lake.

Map

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