After a ride down to Fushimi, and then part way to Uji, we rode back via Tofukuji Temple and then cut down to Yogenin, with its bloody ceiling.
The 500 yen entrance fee was a bit steep, but we were set to go, wallet out.
However, according to the man at the reception area, visitors are required to join a scheduled Japanese-language tour. No wandering, no photography, and you have to be lead around by the nose by a tour guide.
Back on the bike, we pulled out of Yogenin and, across the street, in front of the wall of Sanjusangendo Temple strode a woman decked out in a kimono.
A moveable feast.